For all the burgeoning fashion designers out there, Christina Lew of Green Eyed Monster and Rachael Cassar of Rachael Cassar give some advice on how to become an eco fashion designer and address the excuses we make that prevent us from reaching our full potential. The excuses we are talking about are the ones that start with ‘but…’ and usually end with self-pity and a loss of ambition. They are thought of on such a regular basis that it would seem that we are hell-bent on preventing ourselves from our own success.
“BUT… I don’t know enough about the industry”
Answer: Neither do most people!
Worry not. The ethical fashion industry is itself new and still growing at an alarming rate. This is partly because of green celebrities who spread awareness on environmental issues.
According to Christina Lew (half of Green Eyed Monster), the industry is definitely growing; “five years ago, there may have been only a handful of eco-fashion designers in Australia but now there are a number of designers and retailers who specialise in eco-fashion.” Although it is more established overseas, ethical fashion is gaining more coverage in Australia right now. One example is the inclusion of ethical clothing in this year’s Melbourne L’Oreal Fashion Week 2010.
In spite of this, Rachael Cassar makes a valid point in saying that although “eco has fought for a place in the fashion industry … in terms of eco really moving forward as a leading accessible choice in our industry … this is yet to happen” because “it is still singled out as just ‘eco’ and not really fashion.”
Evidence of this can be seen in the way that “eco brands are not put on an even playing field with non-eco designers” which prevents it “from truly being part of the fashion industry like any other brand would.” Eco-fashion is an uphill struggle. You need to ask yourself if you can be excited about being a part of this developing underdog-esque subculture that falls under the massive umbrella that is the fashion industry.
“BUT… I’m not sure I should do it”
Answer: Follow your passion!
First of all, are you a designer by nature? Rachael Cassar thinks, “designing has to come from within. I really don’t think anyone who doesn’t have a natural ability to create can just do a fashion design course and come out the other end as a designer.”
Instead, “you have to have an inherent relationship with shape, form, texture and colour” which may need formal training. Rachael went to university “to learn how to pull all of these elements together and create a successful cohesive story”.
Be inspired by your love for the environment, let it inspire you, and believe in your cause. Without an authentic passion for what you’re doing, your label will lose credibility.
For some, like Rachael Cassar, it’s innate; “the process of recycling and re-using has always been a passion and an intrinsic part of me. After studying and learning more about our global environmental issues, I could not help but feel responsible and obligated to use my ability to re-use and up-cycle to create an alternative fashion solution.”
For others, like the designers of Green Eyed Monster, a little push was needed later on in life. Christina Lew says that the environmental conscientiousness of her and her business partner, Anne Ryan, increased “after becoming mothers” because “you think a lot more about the future you are creating once you have children”.
It is important, in any organisation, to have values. That is, after all, what is said to separate humans from the rest of the animal world; our ability to make value judgements. Make a list of the values you feel are important for your brand to reflect, and stick by them vigorously.
“BUT… I don’t know where to start”
Answer: Educate yourself!
Christina’s advice in terms of beginning a career as an eco-designer is: “it is always beneficial to do some kind of fashion course (sewing, pattern-making, design, illustration etc) simply to gain some of the technical skills that are required and to work out if this kind of career is really right for you.”
Formal courses are also recommended, as well as unpaid or paid work experience “which may mean approaching people you’d like to work for and asking them… Most people are only too happy to help young people starting out so never be afraid to ask the question”.
Answer: Have the right Attitude!
For Rachael Cassar it is important “that you for one are passionate about trying to change an industry that doesn’t really want to change … make eco work for you. Don’t look at it as a sacrifice but as an opportunity to problem solve which brings on more exciting, new and different ways that we can challenge ourselves to design.”
During Rachael’s four-year Fashion and Textile Degree at the University of Technology Sydney (UTS), she always knew she was different in terms of her process and how she liked to create her designs; “I never felt comfortable going about the conventional way of creating fashion apparel and quite often felt uncomfortable and somewhat like a fraud.”
Feeling out of place is normal, but she let her uniqueness work to her advantage and we can see where that got her!
Answer: Pair up with a friend!
It can get hard to motivate yourself when you’re doing it alone. Christina says “being a sole trader is quite a lonely venture but with two people on board, we can jointly share responsibilities and take our brand to the next level.”
Christina met Anne a year after Anne started the label and Christina was her customer! Christina says, “I started working for Anne for free and then she asked me to be her business partner!” Networking can change your life, so don’t be afraid to put yourself out there and make things happen instead of waiting for things to happen.
“BUT… I have a job”
Answer: Don’t let that stop you!
Answer: Don’t let that stop you!
That is no excuse! There are many classes with flexible hours to accommodate part-time students. Christina’s business partner, Anne, “was able to do many of her fashion-related courses part-time while working in the corporate world and after having children.”
You simply have to ask yourself if it is something you want to do with your life; only if the answer is yes will your struggles be justified.
“BUT… I don’t know where to get eco-friendly materials”
Answer: Go online!
Answer: Go online!
Apparently being in Australia gives you an advantage over other beginners around the world as the eco-industry here is thriving compared to other countries. Christina recommends that someone starting out should “start researching on the internet, talking to contacts in the fashion industry, joining some fashion industry online forums and networking to find out.”
Green Eyed Monster prefers “organic cotton grown without pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilisers which is much better for the environment, the people who grow it, the people who sew it and the end user who wears it on their skin.” They may also look at other organic and natural fabrics such as merino wool and silk.
Christina and Anne use eco-friendly dyes and “try to avoid man-made fabrics such as polyester or nylon because of the petrochemical processes used to make them, the subsequent damage to the environment – chemicals leaching into waterways, air, soil and animal life – and the potential damaging health effects to the wearer (via inhalation or skin absorption) from skin allergies to being linked to cancer.”
Another thing to keep in mind is that there are definite challenges in sticking to such brand values; the main one being cost. Organic cotton is 10 to 45 percent more expensive than normal cotton. Also, having their clothing made in Australia – in sweatshop free environments – rather than going off-shore is more expensive which means they need to pass those costs on in order to still make a living.
Answer: Recycle non-biodegradable materials!
There are so many rejected items that can be re-worked into fashionable pieces that you can make use of as an alternative to organic fabrics. Rachael Cassar is a perfect example. While she does not use eco-friendly materials, she uses “existing garments that have already had their lifespan, unpicking them and using the fabric—giving a new life to a product that would have ended up in a landfill.”
“I create only one trans-seasonal range per year, everything is hand made by myself, which eliminates technological processes and suppliers.” Making use of something that you would otherwise dispose of and using human energy instead of electric machinery is also a way to do your part for the environment.
Summing it all up
You have the world at your fingertips, and what you can become is really up to you. Take small steps and get some unpaid work experience to see if you truly enjoy the work. Ask yourself what drives you, and take each small step forward to make your dreams tangible. The world is a runway, your life is a dress, and only you hold the power to grab the materials, design, and execute.
Written by Christabelle Tani
Image Credit: Rachael Cassar Ecouture
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