Hemp has had its ups and downs in recent years and although it is renowned for being an environmentally sound resource, it is often tarnished with its narcotic association. Once again the environmentally conscious are extolling its virtues, not only in terms of fashion and hemp clothing, but also in a variety of other dynamic ways where it has proven its superiority in terms of eco-sustainability.

Although this has not been a particularly accepting century for hemp, in reality, hemp has been around for a very long time and has proven very useful – hemp cloth dating back to 8000BC was found in Mesopotamia; the first book was written in China on hemp paper; and Van Gogh painted on a hemp canvas. But still the word hemp itself circulates discursively as being associated with or even mistaken for cannabis, which is where it gains its pejorative meaning.

History of Hemp’s Exile

The current laws and prejudices against the cultivation of hemp can be attributed to three men, Henry J. Anslinger, Lammont DuPont, and William Randolph Hearst, who made growing hemp illegal in the USA. How? Harry Anslinger was the head of the Federal Bureau of Narcotics in the United States in the 1930s and it was he who put the 'Marijuana Tax Act' into motion.

There has been speculation that Anslinger did this out of personal interest: Anslinger was married to Andrew Mellon’s niece – Mellon was U.S Secretary of Treasury and President of Mellon Bank – and Mellon Bank was a major contributor in terms of finances to Du Pont Corporation, which created petroleum-based synthetic products, which natural hemp products would compete with. Meanwhile Hearst was the owner of the largest newspaper at the time and started printing outlandish stories with attention grabbing headlines that tapped into community fears claiming rapists were marijuana-crazed and immigrants were pot-smoking laze-abouts.

It seems these three men succeeded in perpetrating arguably one of the most environmentally devastating conspiracies, through the workings of exploitative politics and propaganda. Regardless, the time has come when the positive attributes of hemp can no longer be ignored: the medical properties of hemp are evident through its prolific use in lotions and skincare; in terms of nutrition, hemp is commonly used in cooking oil because of its low saturated fats content; and hemp seeds are highly nutritional and can be also eaten raw or incorporated into snacks, cereals, and baked goods.

Hemp Misconceptions

If you are tired of being satisfied with mere assumptions on this hazy subject, read on. We dissect two of industrial hemp’s most common misconceptions before taking a look at the cold, hard facts.

Don’t let yourself be fooled by the two largest misconceptions about hemp:

1. Hemp is the same as cannabis: Although hemp is derived from the same plant as cannabis, they have opposite levels of psychoactive tetrahydrocanabinol (THC), the main ingredient that causes intoxication.
   Actually, hemp refers to using the stalks and seeds industrially, so THC is not in any products that have been made from hemp. Industrial hemp is genetically as well as chemically different from cannabis, and is in no way a drug.
2. Hemp is rough: The assumption that hemp is abrasive is misleading. A new process in the treatment of hemp fibres – that is, using enzymes – gives it a softer feel without compromising its strength. That is why the more that you wash hemp clothing, the softer it will get.

The Hemp Facts

Facts – the reasons why hemp as an industrial resource has achieved international recognition:

• Hemp yields more fibre per acre than any other source and is a more sustainable material to create paper out of than trees. This is significant because 50% of the world’s forests are cut down to manufacture paper.
• It becomes softer with every wash.
• It has rough stems that can be used to insulate houses and pack parcels.
• It naturally blocks harmful UV rays from the sun.
• Hemp fibres are renowned for being long, strong, and absorbent; it is four times more durable and tensile than cotton.
• One acre of hemp fibre is equivalent to two to three acres of cotton fibre. One hectare of hemp produces 8000-11000kg of dry biomass.
• As a fuel, hemp produces 10 tons of biomass in four months, 4 times the production of corn, which makes it the only legitimate cost competitive energy crop for charcoal, ethanol, etc.
• Fibres withstand mould and mildew, which is the reason why hemp has been used for the sails of ships for several decades.
• It is adaptable and smooth; it can emulate anything made from cotton and also adapts well to changing seasons.
• Hemp does not have any chemical residue (for example, pesticides or herbicides) and it is known for being easy to apply organic farming methods to.
• It can grow in a variety of climates and responds well to ice, endures droughts and does not need much water. This is because of its deep root system, which uses subsoil moisture while ventilating the soil.
• It stretches the least out of all the fabrics.
• Its original colour is beige but it can take an array of dyes and preserves colour well.
• Hemp absorbs water while resisting UV light.
• It can be fused together with other fabrics with ease, even knits.
• No bleach means it is good for those with sensitive skin.
• It is good for garments what endure a lot on a daily basis; for example, a uniform.
• Hemp see ds are a source of nutritious high-protein oil that can be used for human and animal consumption. Hemp oil is NOT intoxicating. Extracting protein from hemp is less expensive than extracting protein from soybeans. Hemp protein can be processed and flavoured in any way soybean protein can.
• Hemp oil can also be used to produce paint, varnish, ink, lubricating oils, and plastic substitutes. Because 50% of the weight of a mature hemp plant is seeds, hemp could become a significant source for these products.

Hemp dates back further than our minds can grasp and has been used for everything including nutrition, hemp fibre textiles and biodiesel. As its benefits for industrial use cannot be denied – specifically in relation to how it can benefit the environment by being one of the world’s most sustainable resources – it’s about time that governments around the world acknowledge the usefulness of industrial hemp and allow it to be used in all its eco-efficient glory!

To find business that offer hemp clothing and other products take a look in the Fashion & Clothing section of the Green Times Business Directory.

Written by Christabelle Tani

Editing and additional research by Suze Chalmers

All images courtesy of Wikipedia Commons